Increasingly, designers like Stella McCartney, Maggie Marilyn, Balenciaga, and Mother are offering organic fabrications and upcycled options, and their manufacturing partners have made real strides in the dye and wash processes to make the production of blue jeans greener. One thing jeans today aren’t meant to be is disposable (though if that’s your thing, AG’s Jean of Tomorrow is fully biodegradable). The latter has introduced a denim capsule, Dior 8, a tribute to Christian Dior’s lucky number. Chic tailored trousers were also seen at Fendi and Dior. Just look at Matthieu Blazy’s debut as creative director of Bottega Veneta he scanned denim to make a photoreal print that was then applied to leather, resulting in buttery-soft boyfriend “jeans.” Or luxe-knit authority Loro Piana, which created the world’s first cashmere denim this season, a warm blue trouser with a soft hand feel woven in Japan on artisanal looms. Jeans have proved an enduring part of a classic wardrobe-a versatile closet workhorse-which isn’t to say they lack style. Similarly, in his debut at denim stalwart Diesel, Y/Project’s Glenn Martens showed a tour de force of research and development, featuring jeans that had been chromed, quilted, frayed at the waist, or tufted to look like fur. Hallowed European houses from Alaïa to Bottega Veneta to Celine used them as a blank slate for innovation and experimentation. But rather than disappearing, jeans are once again a fashion phenomenon. One of the most popular pandemic predictions was that people would abandon denim, as fashion observers and shoppers gravitated toward the softer feel and more forgiving waistlines of sweatpants. Then, in 1976, Calvin Klein became the first designer to show jeans on the catwalk, ushering in an era of pop-cultural fixation that reached its apex (or perhaps its saturation point) when Britney Spears and Justin Timberlake wore matching denim-on-denim looks on the red carpet at the American Music Awards in 2001. A symbol for 1950s teen angst in Rebel Without a Cause, they were adopted by the 1960s counterculture.
They would become synonymous with Hollywood’s romance with the cowboy, and by the early 1940s they were popular as women’s leisurewear, thanks to silver-screen stars like Ginger Rogers and Rita Hayworth, who wore them in publicity photos. Patented in San Francisco in 1873 by two immigrants, tailor Jacob Davis and dry-goods merchant Levi Strauss, sturdy denim pants woven from indigo-dyed cotton and reinforced with metal rivets were first worn by miners and other laborers. And perhaps no article of clothing is as quintessentially American-and, like America itself, as endlessly capable of reinvention-as the blue jean.
“Blue denims are the most beautiful things since the gondola,” the inimitable Diana Vreeland once decreed. Back, from left: Peter Do, Brandon Maxwell, Missoni, Ulla Johnson Brandon Maxwell: Greg Kessler All runway: courtesy the designers Middle, from left: No Sesso, Diesel, Khaite, Ahluwalia.
Front row, from left: Dior, Alaïa, Bottega Veneta.
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